![]() ![]() It is also possible that the carabiner used to implement braking in the plaquette is adding to the resistance (a round-stock carabiner would be best). The most likely explanation is that your ropes are some combination of thick, fuzzy, and stiff. However, I suspect that is likely because she was only ascending a single strand. John G posted a video of someone ascending using the ATC guide mode method and she appeared to be able to easily pull the brake strand through the device. I have seen this technique being recommended often so I thought it would be better than other options, but after trying it out a couple of times I would rather just use two friction hitches unless there is a way to reduce the friction. I am wondering if anybody has any tips to reduce that friction? However, in practice the friction between the brake strands and the belay device is significant and makes ascending very inefficient. I am well aware of how to set up the ATC in guide mode to ascend (as well as several alternatives). ![]() I can't reply due to post limits, so I am adding to my initial post to hopefully direct the replies towards the question I am actually after. I have tried both pulling up directly on the brake strands and pulling down by re-directing the brake strands through a carabiner on the prusik above the device.Īny tips and tricks to make this easier? Or is it really just another not-so-great option for ascending the ropes when needed? The obvious solution is to stop putting myself in situations where I have to ascend the rope, but it's always good to be prepared. The issue I've had is that it is very difficult to pull the rope through the device after stepping up on the prusik. It sounds like a handy trick, but I've now tried it twice and it seems like no improvement over ascending with two prusiks. I hope this tech tech helps your belays run more smoothly! Your elbows will thank you!Īffiliate links above support the content created here.When the topic of ascending ropes comes up, someone always suggests the method of flipping your ATC guide (or similar) into guide mode and makes it sound like a fairly efficient way to ascend. Two carabiners greatly reduces the amount of effort required to pull slack through the device This will again reduce the effort of pulling slack through the device with out removing the assisted-braking function. A round stock carabiner makes pulling slack through the device easier than a forged carabiner with “ribs”įinally consider adding a second carabiner for the rope to run around. The rope will pull noticeable smoother around a round stock carabiner. Next be sure to use a round stock locking carabiner like the Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate Carabiner for the rope to run around as opposed to a forged carabiner with “ribs”. This rope pulls very smoothly through any of the above devices! Currently my favorite single rope for multi-pitch ice and alpine rock climbing is the Sterling Fusion Nano IX DryXP, 70m. The skinnier rope you use the less effort it will take to pull slack through the device. Petzl Reverso (8.5mm – 10.5mm single ropes) Skinnier ropes will require less effort to pull slack then thicker diameters but make sure you are staying within the range the manufacture recommends! For reference here are the suggested ranges for some common devices:īlack Diamond Alpine ATC Guide (8.5mm – 9mm single ropes)īlack Diamond ATC Guide (8.9mm – 11mm single ropes) This can lead to a more efficient belay as well as save your elbows from over-use injuries like tendinitis (not uncommon in life long climbers and guides).įirst make sure you are using an appropriate diameter rope for your device. When using a plaquette style belay device ( Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot) in Assisted-Braking Mode or Auto-Blocking Mode (to belay a follower directly off the anchor) there are some ways to reduce the amount of effort required to pull slack through the device. ![]()
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